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Macellaio RC Union Street

Restaurants, Italian Southwark
3 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

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The third joint from Italian micro-chain Macellaio RC.

Macellaio RC bills the third of its meaty Italian eateries as a ‘lovingly hand-crafted dining theatre, in-house butchery and open air Ligurian bakery’. If that doesn’t make you want to hot-foot it to Southwark to find out more (or Google ‘Liguria’, at least), I don’t know what will.

In truth, the thrilling description pips the place itself. We were seated on a long table with a dropped walkway down the middle, along which the wait staff shuffle to a pulsating soundtrack, like models pacing a catwalk. Theatrical? Perhaps. But really it just created a disjointed dynamic between diners who either had to shout across the aisle to chat or twist awkwardly to speak to the person next door.

The cooking was more of a hit. A starter of steak tartare was silky smooth, and a crisp, Stracchino-cheese-filled focaccia was nicely gooey. And the glistening beef rib we had for our main course, prepared by a butcher in a red leather apron on a raised counter at the head of the table, was supple and soft and totally sublime, though we could easily have eaten another half again.

Focus on the food and Macellaio RC is enjoyable enough. Beyond that, it doesn’t quite deliver on the promised drama.

Macellaio RC Union Street says
Macellaio RC Union Street is the third restaurant from Roberto Costa, and a hymn to Italian excellence. Dine in our unique dining theatre, in-house butchery and traditional Ligurian bakery. Expect fresh, handmade artisan pizza and premium red meats from the Italian mountains, fresh or dry aged.

By: Alex Plim



Address: Arch 24
Arch 24, Old Union Yard Arches
229 Union St
Transport: Tube: Southwark
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £100.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat midday-11pm; Sun midday-10pm
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