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Magdalen (CLOSED)

Restaurants, British Borough and London Bridge

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, Magdalen is now closed. Time Out Food & Drink Editors, April 2017.

Wine glasses gleam, cutlery sparkles, and the chocolatey walls and leather banquettes cosset and charm. Service is professional, the menu short and seasonal and seldom is a polished dessert fork put wrong. Magdalen is low-key enough to feel like a well-kept secret, but it’s also a favourite with clued-up City diners who know their gribiche from their gravlax.

There’s something old-fashioned about it, but the menu is adventurous too; few places would venture to list both kid (saddle and heart) and calves’ brains on the same menu. The latter – cloud-light, fried just-so and served with a punchy gribiche sauce – featured on the excellent-value set lunch menu. Ingredients shine; a starter of parma ham (from the Ham & Cheese Co at nearby Spa Terminus) was sliced transparently thin and served with a dollop of indulgent ricotta. Firm, perfect morels at the height of their short season came with sourdough toast, wild garlic and a poached duck’s egg.

For afters, there are cheeses from Neal’s Yard and grown-up desserts such as marmalade and whisky ice-cream. France is the focus of the well-chosen, mostly European wine list. A few tasting notes wouldn’t go amiss, nor would more choice by the glass, but otherwise it’s hard to find fault.

 

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Details

Address: 152 Tooley Street
London
SE1 2TU
Transport: Tube: London Bridge tube/rail
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