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London’s love of sushi shows no sign of diminishing, yet the kushiage restaurants (literally ‘skewer fried’) so popular in Japan are still largely notable by their absence over here. Thank heavens, then, for this gem of an eaterie, where chef Saito whips up a fairy-light array of food cooked in panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) and deep-fried. The kushiage sets are great value, with a variety of skewers to entice: our favourites were juicy scallops paired with leeks, stuffed lotus roots, and prawns wrapped in aromatic perilla leaves. The teishoku set meals are also a smart choice, and include classic tori kara-age (deep-fried marinated chicken). All come with rice and miso soup.