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Baker Street. There couldn’t be a more apt location for the first UK branch of Eric Kayser’s posh Parisian bakery. On the Sunday morning I visited, it was quiet. A few couples sipping coffee over the papers, a baby in the corner determinedly turning a chocolate grand financier into a pyramid of crumbs on top of a laminated menu. Unwisely, I might add. That signature cake is an absolute triumph.
Maison Kayser is a schlep from Oxford Street, but there is still something of the frenetic touristy rush about it. It feels very much like the latest branch of a global chain – slick but lacking a bit of character.
But the food? The oeufs brouilles a la crème were perfection. Soft, buttery and bright yellow scrambled eggs piled onto sourdough toast with a generous heap of rich, salty smoked salmon on the side. The boiled eggs disappointed, so soft they must have barely touched boiling water. Thankfully, though, they too were served with slices of heavenly sourdough: crisp and crunchy at the edges, a chewy, tangy centre punctured with bubbles. A must for carb-lovers.
Service-wise, staff were slightly distracted, forgetful and hard to attract. We had to ask twice for butter and waited an age to pay our bill – no hardship on a lazy weekend morning, but less than ideal if you’re popping in for a swift snack. It’s worth the risk for that bread, though.