Please note, Ma'Plucker has now closed. Time Out Food editors, March 2019.
London and poultry-based fast food are not a new combination. But this chic new joint in Soho does more than just fried chicken, and offers swift service and a cool wood-panelled décor to boot.
The simple menu offers three cooking methods for its chicken: roasted, deep-fried or pulled. Variety comes from the bases – house bun, maple waffle or salad – and the sauces (gravy, chipotle, BBQ or herb and maple chilli).
Crisp-coated buttermilk chicken breast was a little dry; the coating would lend itself better to wings or thighs. But the scrumptious chicken-skin gravy saved the day and would be a fine addition to any of the ‘styles.’ The waffle was the most intriguing base, giving the mildly-spiced roast chicken a sweet kick. Sides are standard but tasty.
Ma’Plucker’s greatest strength is its dessert menu. The crunchy cornflake and caramel sundae is more than enough for two, while the apple pie (served in a snazzy mess tin) comes with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream.
It was quiet on our visit, but when it’s busy the place is small enough that you might rub shoulders with the group on the next table. It’s still comfortable, however, and not too noisy, making this American-style diner a perfect pitstop for lunch or dinner. And the reasonably priced menu suggests that this won’t be the last of Ma’s coops.