Marcus

Restaurants, Haute cuisine Belgravia
8 Love It
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The former restaurant 'Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley Hotel' was renovated and reopened as 'Marcus' in March 2014. The review below is for the previous restaurant.

Food & Drink Editors

Like sinking yourself into a glass of fine Bordeaux, this long-established dining room is a treat, confident in its quality and style. Deep wine tones are brightened by white linens and a circular glass motif for an ambience that is cosseting and elegantly comfortable. Meals begin with the sommelier wheeling over a trolley of champagne on ice and talking you through the various bottles offered – frankly, it’s hard to say no. Then comes a bread basket with four loaves and, on our visit, airy gougères to snack on. From that point in the meal things just got better: a heavenly pea-themed amuse-bouche with ricotta foam (not at all sudsy); the clean zingy flavours of sardine, sweetcorn, coriander and cucumber in a high-end, not-quite Asian salad; just-so roast pork with a plate-licking jus and aubergine caviar. Desserts are a strong point, and the dish described as ‘apricot, vanilla, oats’ looked like Halley’s comet streaking across the plate: a large crusted ball of two ice-cream flavours, with grilled fruit and compote sparkling in its chocolatey wake. Then superb chocolates and coffee to finish. Every menu is available with a wine-pairing option and, although the list is predominately French, the sommelier selected an Argentinian malbec to match the pork.

 

Posted:

Venue name: Marcus
Address: The Berkeley
Wilton Pl
Knightsbridge
London
SW1X 7RL
Opening hours: Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6-11pm Mon-Sat
Transport: Tube: Hyde Park Corner or Knightsbridge
Price: A la carte: £60 for two courses, £85 for three, £95 for four. Tasting menus from £120 for the tasting. Set lunches £30 for two courses, £28 for three.
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Average User Rating

3.8 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:2
  • 4 star:0
  • 3 star:3
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|5
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tastemaker

No one can deny that chefs who earn Michelin stars (let alone *a* Michelin star) are fiercely devoted, hardworking and artists in their own right. As I’ve said before, and always say, at this calibre you aren’t really looking at whether the produce is fresh or even technique - that is, whether the fish or steak is cooked properly; but what you are looking for is expression and insight to the man or woman behind the kitchen. 

I was taken to Marcus Wareing’s two Michelin star restaurant Marcus (where he is chef patron) for my birthday celebration and had the Taste of Autumn degustation menu. Overall, it does meet the two Michelin star expectations - but that’s just it, it meets it. I really do regret to say that although each dish was enjoyable, it was platitudinal and expected. Wareing, in his own words wants to create dishes that excite his palate and that are interesting and intriguing; however I can’t honestly say that I was thus so excited. There were flashes of intrigue - the highlight dishes were the mackerel with coriander, chimichurri and caviar; wonderfully aromatic and refreshing against the usual oiliness of the mackerel; and the second, the halibut, which was delicious with the silky smooth sweet corn puree, mussel and sea cabbage (a new addition to the menu). There was also a nod to Indian cuisine with the short rib with vindaloo spices; however I felt like the dish and flavours were a little displaced; and although we couldn’t fault the dessert courses, we actually preferred the petite fours that came with our coffee. The service is very swift, attentive and professional; although some staff were a little (understandably) stiff given the Michelin context. 

Overall, Marcus is most definitely, as he says, “easy eating”, it’s a place which prides itself on consistency and an almost congenial quality. Expect the expected here and know, comfortingly so, that it will always be familiar and to taste.


Tip: Check out their website for any upcoming lunch offers


Good For: special occasion, celebrations, small groups, date night, intimate dinner

tastemaker

I don't spend much time in Michelin Starred restaurants, but when a voucher comes your way for a glass of champagne and 4 courses for £45 you don't say no.

The hotel is beautiful with wood panelling and modern art and aspects to bring it bang up to date! The restaurant itself was fairly quite on a Wednesday eve.

The set menu had a few choices which were all beautiful and not so small that we were starving.

I would reccomed if you can get a deal.


Against the other michelin star restaurants in this part of London, I did not get a sense of how they plan to distinguish themselves, either by their menu, service or atmosphere.  I found the experience rather 'unspecial' when I had hoped for something to remember.  I booked for a party of 4 for a birthday a few months ago and can honestly say I there was nothing amazing which I remember about the food.  Yes, its excellent quality - but there is no original stamp here that I have come to expect when dining at places like this.  Bit of a deflated balloon of an experience, I am afraid to say.


Over the pas years we have gotten used to Marcus Wareing being one of the hardest judges on BBC's Masterchef to the extend where I really didn't like him as a person (I have to give it to him - he is softened up his act a lot lately). But I have to revisit that opinion after visiting his two michelin starred restaurant. This man has all the right in the world to be a tough judge, because his restaurant is insane. Food is extraordinary, service was absolutely impeccable and the venue was gorgeous. Yes it does not come cheap, but price/quality is definitely on point. You would be a fool not to go.


Overpriced and underwhelming as a result. Service is efficient (almost brusque with a few exceptions). Food was good quality but varied from pedestrian to overly fussy with some distinctly odd flavour combinations. Highlight was the pear tart tatin providing s satisfying sugar high to end an unremarkable meal but didn't quite take the sting from the bill. Beware of ambitious recommendations from the sommelier as this is not a recession friendly wine list to begin with.