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A sophisticated small-plates restaurant.
A laid back small-plates restaurant in Leyton, Marmelo Kitchen is the kind of place that makes its own jam. Not granny jam. Chic jam, served in perfectly proportioned glass pots. On our weekend visit a thirtieth birthday party was hogging two of the sharing tables, and even though they were so pissed they were having trouble spelling out the word ‘birthday’ in silver balloons, Marmelo somehow managed to feel elegant. The best seats are outside: the staff bring you blankets, and Francis Road makes for extremely good people-watching.
The menu changes weekly, and can be found scrawled up in chalk on a central blackboard. Surprisingly, the most exquisite thing was a dip: beautifully white whipped feta with tart, slow roasted tomatoes plopped on top. Scooping mouthfuls up with soft, cakey bread set the bar for the rest of the night. Next up was a fat hunk of pork belly with salty crackling on top – the meat here was so wonderfully soft, with hints of apple. There was also a gorgeous sweet potato and fig salad with crumbly goat’s cheese. Everything is little: Marmelo is the kind of place where it’s tempting to order the entire menu and flit promiscuously between small plates.
There was one dud green bean salad slathered in what tasted like cold tinned tomatoes. But overwhelmingly, Marmelo Kitchen delivered hit after hit. The chocolate tart at the very end was so satiny and dark we ordered two of them. The menu will have changed by the time you get to it. But guaranteed: it will be luscious.
169 Francis Rd
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £70.|
|Do you own this business?|