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Masa (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Afghan Goodge Street

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

This restaurant is now closed.

First there was Masa in Harrow: a low-key if well-liked Afghan restaurant with food easily outshining its bland, shopping-precinct surrounds. A less likely candidate to sprout a West End branch you could scarcely imagine. Yet here we are, behind a little, easily missed shop-front on Goodge Street. The interior of Masa mark II is simply furnished, based around a grill (kebabs sizzling) and food counter at the front, with no-frills tables and chairs on new dark-wood flooring to the side and rear.

Unlike the Harrow original, no TV blares, but, thankfully, the same menu is served. Imagine Middle Eastern, Turkish and North Indian/Pakistani repertoires combined, and you get the idea. We tucked in with abandon, heartened by the BYO policy and the low, low prices.

Bourani Afghani is a tangy tomato and aubergine stew topped with yoghurt; we followed it with equally flavour-packed ashak (leek-filled dumplings) and mantoo (more dumplings, this time filled with minced lamb), both featuring nicely chewy pasta. Nan breads, arriving in abundance, were top-drawer too. Only a dryish lamb shank served with raisin-dotted pilau failed to please, though an accompanying rogan-josh-like curry more than made amends – as did the mint-topped zesty dogh (yoghurt drink) and the young, clued-up service.

Reviewed by Phil Harriss

Posted:

Details

Address: 55 Goodge St
London
W1T 1TQ
Transport: Tube: Goodge Street
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