French Mediterranean restaurant Maset is a relaxed neighbourhood bistro, albeit it’s a very fancy neighbourhood (it’s on Marylebone’s eye-wateringly chic Chiltern Street). The decor is clean and creamy white, but also intentionally cluttered and a little mismatched – when we visited I was perched on a canvas chair while my friend was crammed onto a cushion-filled banquette. It’s nice, rather than forced – French dining can be a little formal, but Maset is happy to put you at your ease, and matches its informal looks with a convivial and relaxed atmosphere.
Some of the food is very dainty, but Maset is not afraid to be hearty
It’s the brainchild of restaurateur Melody Adams, whose previous venues are the nearby Basque-inspired restaurants Lurra and Donita. Maset hops over the border for its inspiration, with the seafood-centric menu based on the cuisine of the Occitan region of France (aka the bit with Marseilles in it).
It is definitely a choose-your-own culinary adventure type of place. For those on a budget I’d say Maset is casual enough that you can stick to its bountiful lighter options without feeling you’re table blocking. A sensationally impressively realised trio of bouillabaisse croquettes (tastes like, um, bouillabaisse, but crunchy) and crisp glass of Maison Ventenac Cassandre will set you back £17 – you won’t exactly be stuffed but you’ll have got your money’s worth. Also very light, very tasty and very affordable: beignets de brandade (saltcod fritters) with aioli and panisse (chickpea fries) with anchoïade.
The relaxed, friendly staff will however definitely recommend the £70 monkfish tail without a second’s hesitation. And they’re right to do so! It is deliciously fresh and meaty, served with lardo (that’s cured fat to you) that further amps up its meatiness and gives it an agreeable hint of barbeque. And while that is obviously a lot to drop on a casual lunch, it is worth saying that sharing seems to be heavily encouraged: the elderly couple at the next table did the same as us and shared the lamb cutlets with salsa verde between two, which were sensational. I’m not sure they were the most Occitanian thing on the menu, but they were certainly the biggest cutlets I’ve ever seen, done to juicy perfection, and paired with an immaculate side of charred green beans with crispy capers.
While some of the food is very dainty, Maset is not afraid to be hearty: my dessert was a great slab of moist orange blossom fougasse that made my glad I’d split the formidable mains.
Run by a local, Maset self-consciously wants to be a hub for the chic community – when I visited it was sending canapes over to a late night opening in a boutique across the road. But the friendliness isn’t forced: I 100 percent don’t belong on Chiltern Street, but it was nice to feel welcomed as if I did.
The vibe Boho neighbourhood bistro.
The food South of France-centric, with lots of seafood and a love of interesting regional snacks.
The drink An extensive, largely French wine list – a small but interesting cocktail menu that works Occitan ingredients into classic drinks.
Time Out tip It’s well worth trying to get a window seat to admire the comings and goings of Chiltern Street – it’s open continuously from noon onward so try coming at a quieter time of day.