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Meat Liquor East Dulwich

  • Restaurants
  • East Dulwich
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

An East Dulwich branch of the filthy burger pioneer.

Meat Liquor: you know the drill by now. Its restaurants are dark, noisy and covered with the kind of chaotic graffiti that makes a mild headache a migraine. There’s the ace cocktail list – with a couple of super-strong options ominously limited to two per customer, not that I’ve ever been declined a third – and a menu of burgers and other filthy eats that basically kickstarted London’s hipster junk food scene all those years ago.

This East Dulwich branch ticks all those boxes, but the tourist-free south-east London locale seems to have done it some favours. It’s easily the best and most consistent ML I’ve eaten in since the glory days of Hoxton’s church-themed MeatMission. Nothing’s a surprise, exactly, yet everything was basically faultless. A pile of Monkey Fingers (aka buffalo-slathered chicken fillet strips) was bounteous and juicy, the zesty heat of the sauce tempered with a cool blue-cheese dip. A side of Hot Mess – a bowl of hash browns drowning in more buffalo sauce and blue cheese, plus jalapenos and pickles – was shamelessly dirty (in a good way). Fried pickles, so often slimy and unctuous, were here crisply battered and greaseless, while deep-fried mac ’n’ cheese sticks oozed with molten cheese. I swerved the beefburgers for a Chilli Dog – it was good, with an excellently thick, chilli-slathered beef frank, but was also burdened with the hotdog curse of being an assemblage of decent bits that collapse in the hand – and followed that with the buffalo chicken burger. It’s Meat Liquor’s secret weapon: an insanely delicious tower of moist fried bird, sopping with yet more fiery buffalo sauce, and strung with red onion and sharp, creamy blue cheese. A triumph. Just like everything else, really. London’s got a more than crowded burger scene, but Meat Liquor continues to reign supreme. All hail.

Written by
Tom Howells


37 Lordship Lane
SE22 8EW
East Dulwich rail.
Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £70.
Opening hours:
Mon-Thurs 11am-midnight; Fri & Sat 11.30am-1am; Sun 11.30am-11.30pm
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