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Meat Liquor Queensway

Restaurants, American Queensway
3 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

First things first. Meat Liquor Queensway – a branch of the usually decent burger chain in a subterranean Bayswater sports space that also houses a bowling alley, ice rink, pool tables, arcade games and so on – may be adults only after 8pm, but before then it’s no place for the child-averse. On my Sunday visit, the place was swarming with kids’ birthday parties, complete with high-pitched shrieking and a sea of dead-eyed west London mums. Relaxing it was not. But then, with its graffitied walls and hangover-exacerbating music, has Meat Liquor ever been serene?

The food seemed ever-so-slightly like a pale imitation of what you’ll find at the chain’s better branches (Marylebone and East Dulwich, take a bow). The buffalo chicken burger – usually a fiery, blue-cheese-sauce-sopping gem – was a tad dry and conservative with the chilli (same goes for the buffalo wings). Likewise a double cheeseburger, which had a brittle bun and lacked the unctuous juiciness and greasy appeal Meat Liquor made its name with. It seemed to be catering to family tastes rather than those of slavering burger fiends. Maybe it was.

Saying that, a steaming pile of generously loaded chilli cheese fries was as good as ever, and the ‘sticks’ of deep-fried mac’n’cheese were more slabs, and satisfyingly gooey even before a slathering of zesty marinara sauce. A dessert of marshmallow, coconut and Oreo ‘Filth Pie’ (dense, sticky and quite shockingly delicious) lived up to the name.

Still, unless you’re somehow stranded in Bayswater on the weekend and desperate for a half-decent daytime burger, we’d make a beeline for ML’s W1 original. Or brave the terrors of youth. Consider yourself warned.

Wanna bag 50 percent off here? Check out our Table for Two Vegan-Friendly Box.


Address: 17 Queensway
W2 4PQ
Transport: Tube: Queensway
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £70.
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