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Sat in the south-west corner of The Ned’s cavernous main atrium (honestly, it’s so big that compass directions are appropriate), Millie’s Lounge is the ‘British’ offering in this restaurant complex from the Soho House group. It’s a cosy space – think velvety upholstered seating and carpets – even with a nearby band blasting out renditions of mainstream pop and soul tunes (more foghorn than cruise ship on my visit).
The food is unadventurous, but comforting. Starters were all fine: from a diddy jar of potted shrimp, heavy with butter and a tad liberal with the cayenne, to a modish and pretty plate of raw and charred cauliflower. Mains-wise, a daily special of stone bass (a meaty beastie also known as wreckfish) looked a bit dry but was moist and flaky, and its bed of split peas and spring onions had a neat gremolata zinginess. Best of all was a hefty bowl of mince and potatoes – a surprisingly fresh mix of earthy, waxy tats and ragù-like meat. A spartan dish, but a classic. As for desserts: a rhubarb fool had a retro sweetshop vibe, while a wedge of lemon tart was textbook.
Cutting-edge Millie’s is not – but for warming, nostalgic food that’s a rung above home cooking, it does perfectly well.