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Brindisa began as an importer of quality Spanish ingredients in the late 1980s, but its founders later segued into hospitality, launching the first of their small chain of tapas restaurants in Borough Market in 2004. This latest branch is the first to shift focus from tapas to cooked meats – roasts, grills, and slow-cooked braises – in a modern take on the Spanish asador.
The large, low-lit dining room is handsomely designed, with colourful Moorish floor tiles, copper light fittings, and a central marble-topped bar-cum-kitchen. The visceral experience of a traditional asador has been somewhat sanitised: unlike at, say, Ember Yard, here your senses aren't arrested by the smell of meat. Also, unlike in Spain, no whole animals grace the menu, just specific cuts of suckling pig and milk-fed lamb. Dishes are hearty in style, but presentation is self-consciously rustic, with braises brought to the table in mini cauldrons.
Chistorra ‘fritters’ made a memorable first impression, presented as beer-battered chorizo on sticks in a light-hearted Iberian take on American corn dogs. Grilled lamb chops – served with excellent chickpeas – were tender, though not juicy or well-seasoned enough to be finger-licking (many of the dishes needed an extra pinch of salt). Plump marinated sardines had moist, firm meat that worked well in a kale salad.
Dessert was also good – goats-cheese cheesecake topped with the faintest of burnt-sugar crusts contrasted sweet and tart notes. The all-Spanish wine list offers variety and clear descriptions, and almost everything is available by the glass.
It was early days when we visited, and we do hope the waiters’ VIP treatment of every diner continues as the restaurant gets busier. For now, although Morada breaks new ground for Brindisa, the kitchen plays it safe, with predictably good results.