Morgan M (CLOSED)
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This restaurant is now closed.
The restaurant doesn’t give much away with its bland beige colour scheme and narrow dining area – Morgan Meunieur prefers to let his resolutely French cooking do the talking. On our lunchtime visit, only a few tables were occupied, most by suited businessmen. Conversation was hushed, the service starched, and the atmosphere just a tad forbidding. The reasonably priced set menu was OK, good in parts, and occasionally outstanding. Top marks to plump ravioli cushions filled with flavoursome wine-cooked snails and crowned with a cloud of garlicky froth. A main course of crisp-skinned cod fillet was perfectly cooked and worked well with buttery parsley purée risotto and caramelised parsnip – a triumph of contrasting flavours. Sadly, though, desserts didn’t deliver. Hot pineapple soufflé was too sweet and marred by a grainy pina colada sorbet accompaniment. Woes continued with an unyielding genoa bread disc, sandwiched between fruity rhubarb compote and lacklustre Jurançon wine ice-cream. The hefty wine list features some serious French players, as well as lesser-known bottles. Perhaps we were unlucky with the lunchtime set menu, as dining from the pricey à la carte and tasting menus is of a higher order, and the vegetarian tasting selection is well received.