Morso

A modern Italian-inspired restaurant, Morso deals mostly in small plates, fresh pasta and grappa. With a mix of table and bar seating, the interior is simple and unfussy. Food is equally pared-back: we enjoyed a light, airy (and complimentary!) homemade ricotta to kick off the meal, served with chargrilled ciabatta. Small plates also shone. A melt-in-the-mouth lamb rump arrived splayed against a backdrop of a velvety jerusalem artichoke purée and a zesty salsa. Equally well executed was the crisp-skinned sea bass, which sat on a pile of crunchy fennel ribbons, pine nuts, orange segments and olives, all working together without overwhelming the fish.

The aldente maltagliati (extra-wide pasta ribbons) was equally on-point, with tender meat and delightful spicy, aniseedy flavours. And the signature egg-yolk raviolo was a delight: a single parcel of ricotta and egg deliciousness in a classic sage-butter sauce.

Service was relaxed, the staff informal and chatty. For a Sunday night, the place was packed, a lot of customers clearly regulars. We can see why: Morso excels on all fronts, and is everything a great neighbourhood restaurant should be. 

BY: GEETA DHAR