If you’re accustomed to the clash and clatter of hard surfaces in modern restaurants Murano may come as a shock. Plump upholstery, crisp linens and warm leather ensure a sumptuous, serene setting for a meal that draws as much on French fine dining as Italian staples. Chef-proprietor Angela Hartnett pops out regularly to chat with obvious regulars, diners linger long over numerous courses and pricey wines, and waiters glide silently between tables ensuring that service is impeccable.
It’s a winning combination when the cooking is as assured as Hartnett’s. Dishes are in tune with the elegant surroundings. Crab tortelli was perfectly proportioned, its pasta springy and filling delicate. Almond purée was the inventive accompaniment to heartily dense roast sweetbreads. Creamy borlotti beans featured in a filling, chunky chowder of Cornish haddock, sweetcorn and clams, yet the combination did not cloy the palate.
To finish, a light yoghurt mousse sat prettily alongside vermillion gariguette strawberries. The set lunch menu is a bargain for a special occasion; come often enough and Angela might start stopping by your table too.
20 Queen St
|Opening hours:||Lunch served noon-2.45pm, dinner served 6.30-10.45pm Mon-Sat|
|Transport:||Tube: Green Park|
|Price:||Set lunch £28 2 courses, £33 3 courses. Set meal £55 2 courses, £70 3 courses, £80 4 courses, £95 4 courses|
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Average User Rating
5 / 5
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I was recently very lucky to spend a night at the Chefs Table in the private room at Murano for a family gathering.
The night started with Lambrusco Rose while they placed multiple different appetisers on the table to share. We had parmesan crisps (to die for!), olives, a variety of dips, arancini balls, cured meats and bread. This was followed by a choice of four options for each of the three courses. I chose mushroom gnocchi for entrée, pork belly for main and vegan chocolate mousse for dessert. It was all delicious and the vegan chocolate mousse didn't taste vegan at all!
One member of our group was vegan and they created a special menu for all courses just for her which I thought was great.
It was an honour to spend the night in the private room at Murano and if the chance ever comes up again I wouldn't hesitate in going back.