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Please note, since the publication of this review Neighbour's cuisine type has changed. Time Out Food editors, April 2018.
Neighbour, on the Kentish Town Road, is one laidback local eatery. The soft glow of the table lights, the chilled soundtrack and the leisurely, friendly service are enough to make the day’s woes gently dissipate.
An all-day affair – with everything from brunch, lunch and dinner to cocktails – it comes from the team behind popular joints like Paradise by Way of Kensal Green, The White Lion and The Gatehouse. Here, the chefs switch up the menu every couple of months to reflect what’s in season and the single-page dinner menu makes things simple: small plates or large ones.
The tapas-style dishes were good for sharing: the duck egg arrived in a crisp breadcrumb coating, while succulent chorizo chunks oozed unctuous juices, accompanied by prawns and padrón peppers (although these lacked real flavour). In the depths of winter, the soul-warming mains really helped this place shine. A smoked haddock risotto was indulgent and creamy – as comforting as a hot water bottle on a chilly evening. Small haddock chunks and peas gave it subtle bite, and shavings of chives and cheese added extra layers to every soothing mouthful.
The cumin-roasted cauliflower steak (bathed in date honey and served with harissa kale) worked beautifully: the sweetness was balanced with a slight spiciness, and the scattered roasted hazelnuts gave good crunch. Whether or not you’d finish the enormous portion is another matter. Dessert was decent – the pistachio crème brûlée had a good, snappy top, and the so-called sticky date pudding was delectable, although it missed that medal-worthy adhesiveness.
On my Friday evening visit the restaurant was half full and the bar downstairs empty. Perhaps it’s the January effect, but I’m not complaining: too many people here and that carefree ambience might be lost.