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A seafood restaurant at The Kimpton Fitzroy.
The Kimpton Fitzroy is a fancy London hotel. Close to Russell Square, it has marble staircases, limestone pillars and an opulent lobby where business people in suits roam around having serious conversations on their phones. Neptune is its seafood restaurant.
Away from the more strait-laced parts of the hotel, it is unstuffy, and a delight. Embracing the two contexts of its name (space and the ocean), there are adorable cartoon planets and spaceships printed on the plates and the menus are in cutsey bubble writing. But there’s also an elegant tiki bar at the entrance that brings a touch of fun, along with whimsical greenery, pastel-pink chairs and bar stools made out of cane.
There’s an appealing mix of hotel dining room staples, like steak and chips, alongside the interesting seafood dishes. Fish trumps meat. A warming bowl of delicate clam chowder came with swirls of curry oil and two perfectly boiled quail eggs, while sashimi-like brill crudo had been topped with fresh basil and flecks of finger lime.
Our delicious clam spaghetti, doused in smooth chilli oil and mixed with bright-white pieces of squid, was much better than the juicy-but-fatty sirloin steak and our seafood small plates were more interesting than a nutty pork terrine.
The service was lovely and approachable. Staff seemed sharply dressed in suit jackets and pressed shirts, but closer inspection revealed them to be wearing trainers too. A nice metaphor for the fancy-but-fun aesthetic Neptune’s got going on here – we kept the bubble-written ‘thank you’ card that came with our bill.
The oyster bar located the centre of Neptune’s dining room serves a variety of oysters and shellfish selected from independent growers around the UK.
Alongside this, the menu also features thoughtfully sourced and high-quality British produce cooked on the wood-fire grill including dry-aged beef from Yorkshire and fish direct from boats in Cornwall.
While the casual bar serves fresh aperitif style cocktails, the ever-evolving wine list focuses on a mix of low intervention and classic wines from quality local and international producers.
To compliment the stunning menu, Russell Sage Studio revived the existing Grade II-listed dining room by adding a graphic wooden floor, peach ceiling and a centrally located pewter-top bar, creating a space that is as elegant as it is inviting from morning through to late evening.
We look forward to welcoming you.
The Kimpton Fitzroy
8 Russell Square
|Transport:||Tube: Russell Square|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £125.|
|Opening hours:||Currently CLOSED|
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