Mattieu Germond was co-owner, manager and sommelier at swanky Pied à Terre before taking over the Fitzrovia site formerly occupied by Ollie Dabbous’ debut restaurant. He’s replaced the austere decor with some more friendly colour schemes and comfy upholstery, lightened the mood and pitched the place as an upmarket French bistro with prices to match. Expect a seasonal menu full of appetising ideas ranging from veal tartare with Jerusalem artichoke and truffle emulsion to hake with potato and aïoli salad, grille chorizo and sweetcorn. Given Germond’s pedigree, it’s not surprising that wine is taken seriously here – you can decamp to the basement bar for interesting tipples, cocktails and nibbles, and the owner actively encourages restaurant customers to BYOB (corkage is £20 so bring something special). The name? It refers to Germond’s home village in the Loire Valley.