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North Road (CLOSED)

Restaurants Farringdon

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, North Road has now closed. Time Out Food editors, February 2019.

The subdued surroundings – parquet floor, palette of low-key mushroom colours, subtle line drawings and gently flickering tea lights – do little to prepare diners for the excitement on the plate at North Road. Oversize and rather beautiful bare light bulbs add a playful note, which is carried through to the dishes: amuse-bouche of light-as-air pork scratchings, salty quail eggs nestled in hay, new potatoes stuffed with bakskuld (smoked fish) mayo in a pot lined with thyme. Mini bread rolls come in a small hessian bag, accompanied by caramelised and buttermilk butters. All delightful so far, as was a starter of scallops with sea buckthorn, buttermilk and strips of carrot.

The dairy and sea combo continued – successfully – into a main of Cornish monkfish (and more bakskuld) with sea vegetables and seaweed butter. Less pleasing was Norfolk venison and smoked bone marrow (coated in ash) with beetroot and wild sorrel: a taste sensation too far, as the ash flavour dominated.

Overall, there’s much to be admired – particularly the commitment to British ingredients (many of them foraged) – and it’s a treat to try such unfamiliar dishes. A note of caution for the lactose-intolerant: many dishes, and every dessert, contain milk. We devoured ‘brunsviger’ sponge and milk ice-cream: a divine, caramelised concoction. Unlike the Anglo-Danish menu, the wine list roams the globe; service is charm itself, though so heavily accented that we struggled to understand. Note that co-founder and chef Christoffer Hruskova left the business in summer 2012.

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Details

Address: 69-73 St John Street
London
EC1M 4AN
Transport: Tube: Farringdon tube/rail
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