Özer (CLOSED)

Please note, Ozer has now closed. Time Out Food Editors, December 2018.

Hüseyin Özer’s journey from Turkish shepherd to London kebab-shop owner to multi-millionaire restaurateur is inspiring. Many aspects of his Fitzrovia restaurant are less inspiring – the bland interiors, the conservative cooking – but the all-day set menus offer such value it seems unreasonable to complain. For around ten pounds you’ll get crusty brown bread, houmous, a large meze platter and a main course: a bargain for such a central location. Much of the meze was straightforward, but the parsley and mint in the tabouleh were particularly perky, pomegranate seeds breathed life into the moutabal, the içli köfte were ungreasy and had perfectly moist minced lamb fillings, and the ‘ex-mother-in-law’s vine leaves’ were full of flavour and character. The set meal main, spicy lamb meatballs, was modest, mediocre and meekly spiced. From the carte, we ordered chicken keshkek. A ceremonial dish of Persian origin rarely seen here, this wheat stew with grilled chicken has a consistency and flavour similar to porridge: a bit bland perhaps, but appetisingly unusual. Özer was full on our visit, which may explain the hurried, impersonal service, but with such keen pricing, a well-chosen wine list (including wonderful Château Musar), and dependable food, it’s easy to see why Hüseyin Özer is no longer a shepherd.