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With a branch now opened in Notting Hill, the burger fan’s fave Patty & Bun is still trendy, if a bit self-consciously so. ‘Filthy’ is written in LED lights above the stairs going down to the loos and children are banned after 7pm. There are all the exposed bricks and loud, pumpin’ tunes a modern-day burger fan has come to expect as their due. It’s fun and all, but at this, P&B’s ninth London branch, the formula feels less fresh.
But the patties? They still got it. The signature Ari Gold cheeseburger is a thick, deliciously sloppy stack of pink beef, pickled onions, sharp cheese and smoky mayo. Also surprisingly good was a big, juicy mushroom burger slathered in cheese sauce and garlic parsley butter. Sides, unfortunately, were a bit disappointing. My rosemary salt chips came over-fried, and the ‘winger winger chicken dinner’ wings were dry.
Patty & Bun has always done details very well – tarragon in the mayo, fresh lime and jalapeno butter sauce on chicken thighs – and this branch continues that grand tradition. It just doesn’t wow the way it used to. It feels like a proper chain now – a very, very good chain, granted.