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I had high hopes for this Fitzrovia restaurant and bar, having had a cracking couple of meals at two of its sister sites, the Thomas Cubitt in Belgravia and The Orange in Pimlico. Percy & Founders suffers in comparison, but there's still much to like.
First impressions were great: it’s a smart, expensive-looking room with service that was, on our visit, super slick and friendly. Both of our starters were corkers: crab salad was light, fresh and packed with sweet crabby flavour; cured trout benefited from some delicious pumpernickel. A diet margarita mocktail was great, too.
Elsewhere, though, the cooking isn’t as well-executed, meaning there’s little to justify prices that ought to guarantee consistency. Charred squid was disappointingly underseasoned, and the spatchcock chicken let down by deflating, limp chimichurri.
A return-to-form dessert of madeleines with maple butter took a while to come, so we had time to take a proper look around. An older crowd, a classy room and an easy-going formality made us think it’d be a good place to impress the in-laws. Get them to pick up the bill though, eh?