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Pierre Victoire

Restaurants, French Soho
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Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

The last couple of years have seen an influx of high-quality, cheap barbecue shacks into Soho – so is the competition making this cosy, Gallic dining room feel dated? The hordes of after-work twirtysomethings who continue to pack it out certainly don’t think so.

There are undeniably antiquated touches: staff attempt to lure customers into spending £10 more than the price of house wine by plonking £25 bottles of Chianti on tables. And the astonishingly long menu (15 starters and 18 main courses including no less than four variations on steak- frites) tends to opt for quantity of over quality. A portion of mushroom parcels featuring big, tacky pastry squares with scant filling failed to impress; neither did the chewy skin of twice-roasted belly pork served with dry mash; but the rich tomato ragoût topping tender spatchcocked baby chicken was better.

Cooking might be variable, and mains cost a not-inconsiderable £13 or thereabouts, but there’s no denying the charming, low-lit ambience of this perennially popular restaurant. It has a sense of humour too. The main stylistic touch paying homage to the venue’s French theme? A giant plastic frog squatting in the corner.

 

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Details

Address: 5 Dean Street
London
W1D 3RQ
Transport: Tube: Tottenham Court Road
Contact:
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