Pilau

Having started out life as a pop-up on the site of an old Soho sex shop, Indian café Pilau has opened their first permanent location on Goodge Street. While what they’re selling isn’t quite as titillating as handcuffs and blindfolds, it’s still proving popular. On my visit there was a big queue of working lunchers scanning the refreshingly short menu. You pick between a wrap, a salad and a rice bowl, and pair your choice with butter chicken (good), lamb curry (better) or paneer (nasty). There’s a nice heat on the chicken, and the lamb tastes home-cooked, but the paneer is flabby and bland, and it comes doused in a synthetic-tasting mango chutney. Everything’s very generously portioned, though, and the service is excellent. Plus, on the sweet side of the menu there’s a lovely, creamy mango lassi, and a seriously delicious cardamom-infused custard tart. If you’re after a quick bite you could definitely do worse. Just don’t expect any fireworks. And avoid that paneer.