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The clue’s in the name: come for pizza. Chewy bases, nicely charred edges, decent toppings – by no means the best pizza in London, but for a little neighbourhood joint, not half bad. Case in point: a calabrese, which came generously layered with aubergine, spicy salami and chunks of ricotta; or the signature Pizza Valter, piled high with parma ham and rocket, with a single fat burrata sat in the middle, waiting for you to plunge your fork into it.
Elsewhere, it’s distinctly hit and miss. A scialatielli carbonara was nicely al dente but oversalted; a classic lasagne ruined by flabby, too-soft pasta. Large juicy prawns in a creamy pepper sauce were good; the rock-hard slice of bread they came on was not. Yet the pannacotta – so often a dull dessert – was dense and creamy, restrained in its sweetness and with a nicely fruity berry coulis strewn across it in full cheffy fashion.
The decor isn’t much to shout about either; though an open kitchen, complete with wood-fired pizza oven, adds buzz. But the staff are hugely welcoming. Stick to the pizza and you'll be fine.