A small-plates British restaurant in Tooting’s Broadway Market.
‘Don’t forget your coat’, chirped a local pal, ‘it’s a bit of a wind tunnel in there’. We were talking about Plot, a charming newbie inside Tooting’s Broadway Market. I say inside, but it hasn’t got any walls: just a counter and two communal tables. So it’s sort of outside-inside, if you get my drift.
The compact menu (short enough to almost order one of everything, if you’re a glutton – hello!) is all about small plates. Of the modern Brit kind. It’s seasonal: course it is. And often local, too. But I loved them for not trying to trade off this picklist of trendster tropes. In fact, if you looked for beers and didn’t happen to know that 2Tone Lager was from By the Horns (a 20 minute walk away), or that the Calif-Oregon Amber Ale is the work of SW12’s Belleville brewery, you’d just think they were jolly nice brews and be none the wiser.
They do point out that walnuts come candied in Wandsworth honey, but hey, if you can’t big up your local nectar-gatherers then you really are a heartless bastard. These nutty numbers appear (with waxy goat’s cheese and sweet, earthy chunks of roasted beetroot, in case you’re wondering), as the first of a terrific procession of plates. Next up, the must-order oxtail croquettes. They’re not gamey in the slightest (if you’re generally frightened of things made from tails), but mild, meaty and moist. Four fatballs of wonder. Each with a crunchy, deep-fried coating that begged to be broken into.
Then there was the lamb. This could have been a shade rosier, if I’m being picky, but came with such a sit-up-and-pay-attention take on a salsa verde, made with new-in-season wild garlic, that it still left a lasting impression (and not because of allium breath). Last up, a dense, buttery, sweet bakewell tart, with a nicely salty edge, came anointed with a dollop of silk-and-sour crème fraîche and the pièce de résistance: a zesty, bittersweet blood orange marmalade. Too many puds are so basic, just a load of sugar and fat and not much else. This one had complexity and depth. Kudos.
But great restaurants aren’t just about the food. If they were, we’d all be sat at home in our pants, eating Deliveroo. They also need great service and ambiance to somehow stick in our minds. And that’s where Plot comes in. Not only is the fresh-faced, clued-up team cute enough to make me want to put them in my pocket, but Tooting’s Broadway Market is a lovably dodgy, retro-throwback of a building, all knock-off leather jackets and bucket-shop flights. At night, sat under the high market ceilings, with a nip in the air, the fluorescents off and strings of colourful fairy lights blink-blinking above you, it’s almost like sitting under an urban, starlit sky. So wrap up warm and embrace the magic.
70-72 Broadway Market
|Transport:||Tube: Tooting Broadway|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £75.|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
4.4 / 5
- 5 star:8
- 4 star:2
- 3 star:3
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0
Excellent food, lovely little bar, would highly recommend this place. Looking forward to going back. Particularly liked the haddock croquettes.
Yummo! The speed of service, quality of produce and cooking was and continues to be of a very high standard. Thank you and please keep it going. We will be back shortly.
Brilliant new addition to Broadway Market. Visited with a group of friends and the food was outstanding! We ordered more because we enjoyed it so much!
Amazing British grub, great service and a fabulous vibe - top marks! My new favourite restaurant. A perfect addition to the Tooting food scene.
Great to find a place that excels in celebrating British cuisine in an area to get excited about. We ordered everything and shared it tapas-style. Thanks to Plot for a wonderful evening!
Plot Kitchen presents well on their website and their small kitchen in Tooting Broadway is very smart and well appointed. However in order to reflect the good outward projection they need to work on some basics. In my opinion others are doing what they do better and they need to up their game.
They present their menu as taps/sharing plates, yet the dishes in reality actually very much starters, mains and accompaniments - just small. A bowl of boiled potatoes with bacon bits is not a sharing plate or a tapas. Further to this when it is suggested you share with you fellow diners you should expect to have a good range to pick from. Unfortunately the menu is extremely limited, this would be excusable if the menu was indeed a la carte and as a small business they were carefully moderating food. But this certainly wasn't the case as three of the dishes we asked for were sold out - we had an 8:30 reservation!
We reluctantly ordered the only substantial dish (steak) for each of us (6) along with a selection of everything else after munching the 'sides' on their own (they were obviously still working on the tapas philosophy) we got our steaks, all at the same time.... and all were cold - not rested - cold! when i pointed this out i was told, ' because you ordered so many at once they might have been waiting around a bit.' firstly that's not an adequate customer facing responce, second why not just send them out as they were ready then?
All in the food although fresh and pleasant wasn't as inspiring, as a small menu could be. Limited choice should give the chef the chance to put time and inspiration onto the plate, this didn't come through in the dishes we had. The menu itself also was too succinct and expressed nothing when reading so the deeper feel of the food's provenance and restaurants vision was lost.
Fingers cross they work though the kinks and find their flow as i'm sure they could do good things.