A stylish Fitzrovia restaurant with a bold menu
Please note that Merlin Labron-Johnson is no longer cooking at Portland. Time Out Food editors, November 2018.
It is rare to go to a restaurant and be astonished. But at Fitzrovia’s Portland, astonishment begins when the first dish arrives and doesn’t let up until the last.
We were expecting high quality because of the team behind Portland, whose combined experience includes time spent at the Quality Chop House (four Time Out stars), 10 Greek Street (five stars), and a Michelin-starred restaurant in Belgium. But nothing prepared us for this bold, powerful, surprising food; chef Merlin Labron-Johnson was cooking like a wizard.
The menu is also great value for this level of cooking: most ‘snacks’ and starters from £5-£7, no main course over £20, desserts £5-£7.
We put together our meal from small dishes, and found ourselves repeatedly falling into stunned silence. Three dishes give the idea. Diminutive pig’s head croquettes perched on a blob of kimchee mayonnaise (pictured above): rich filling, satisfying crunch of crumbed exterior, sparky sauce. Carrots stood up straight in a thick sauce of aged mimolette cheese and granola; neither carrots nor hazelnuts have ever tasted so good. Pickled shiitake mushrooms balanced startling acidity with hauntingly earthy, smoky, meaty flavours. Only one dish disappointed out of 11: flabby chips. All the others were superb.
The room is small (45 covers) and has a view of the kitchen unless you sit at the window-facing counter. It’s mostly a bare-wood, no-frills kind of place apart from linen napkins, but it’s very attractive. The short and imaginative wine list has fair choice under £30. Cocktails are well priced and well made. Our dessert, ‘chocolate bar, peanut butter praline, peanut ice cream’, was small, skilfully executed and tasted sensational.
Portland’s website says it reserves the right to ask for tables back after two hours. I don’t begrudge this table-turning, given the restaurant’s size. It’s a small price to pay for astonishment.
113 Great Portland Street
|Opening hours:||Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Sat; Dinner served 6-11pm Mon-Sat.|
|Transport:||Tube: Oxford Circus|
|Price:||Meal for two with drinks and service: around £100.|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
4.7 / 5
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I agree with the comments in the review by Timeout. I am writing this because clearly the prices have increased significantly since the review was written three years ago.
The food is exceptional and the wine list has enough choice so I agree wholeheartedly that the entire visit to Portland is an amazing experience from start to finish.
Just be aware that the prices quoted are no longer appropriate. I would love to have gone when it was that inexpensive. Prices are still reasonable considering everything.
Des options véganes extraordinaires ! Quelle créativité en cuisine ! Petites brochettes de
champignons, grains de maïs cuits dans un jus délicieux, céleris rave
cuit avec des noisettes caramélisés. En dessert une glace à la fraise (ultra parfumée) dans un lit de granité... quel pied ! D'excellents vins. On était hyper bien et de demander des options véganes sans que ça pose problème est un vrai plus. Super service. Merci à toute l'équipe pour ce dîner incroyable.
Whether Portland is “a perfect restaurant” as asserted by Giles Coren, or “the perfect restaurant” is irrelevant. Whilst much of the food is excellent, a few too many hairline fractures appeared over the course of the meal for the restaurant even to near an exemplum of restaurant utopia. The appearance of a hair, too, was somewhat less than perfect, and not all that appealing. Read more on http://www.culinasophia.com/2015/04/portland-restaurant-review/
A wonderful all round experience. Lovely, welcoming venue, attentive staff, interesting ingredients executed well, fantastic wine selection & the puddings are magnificent. A great place to catch up with friends or for a romantic meal. I hope to make it my regular hot spot before word gets out & I can't get in!
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