Primeur has long been a fixture of this residential swathe of north-east London, opening well over a decade ago at the vanguard of the small-plates trend. Tucked into what was once a double-fronted 1930s commercial garage on the wide, tree-lined boulevard of Petherton Road (surely Canonbury’s answer to the Champs-Élysées), Primeur has built up some serious independent restaurant clout. Not just a grand dame of the natty wine and seasonal snack scene, Primeur went on to birth chic seafood spot Western’s Laundry and the many branches of Jolene, which is now less of a bakery and more of a sentient ‘North London pastry girlie in an alice band’ meme.
Toulouse sausage comes on top of mash smoother than a Frank Sinatra chorus
It’s easy to ignore places you know are good in the search of somewhere newer, someplace different. But a recent revisit proved Primeur to be as exceptional as it ever was – and now that the hype has died down and left the place to get on with being a charming neighbourhood bistro – maybe even better. It looks the same as it did when it first opened, aside from a recent addition of sturdy zinc tops on the tables, which sweetly reflect the glow from candles, helping to bathe the room in a toasty, orange light. Romantic? Very. Comely fresh flowers spill out of painted jugs, and couples (it only seems to be couples) are placed kitty-corner around a large square table, or tucked against a counter that lines the wall.
Primeur has proudly stayed committed to the chalkboard menu, and the dishes lean Basque, southern French and Spanish. Cantabrian anchovies are a simple dish, but here they are oily, sleek and eager to be draped over nutty brown bread. Barbajuan, pastry pockets that feel like spanakopita had a baby with a samosa, keep the snack train rolling, as do glorious cod croquetas, soupy and creamy inside a consummate crumb. The small plates get bigger with a Catalan cap i pota stew of gelatinous veal head and trotters. The ideal fix for the current wave of collagen-hungry diners, it’s round and strangely refreshing with a skilful tomatoey kick. A bowl of clams with garlic and kolrahi is more delicate, and though a gothy, ink-braised cuttlefish looks like Marvel’s Venom after a long day on set, it’s sweet and satisfying, and served with a pleasantly cakey panisse. If you’ve ever wanted to dine on Xenomorph, here’s your chance.
Only one dish leaves us feeling like we’ve literally bitten off more than we can chew, and that’s a girthy Toulouse sausage which comes curled on top of mash smoother than a Frank Sinatra chorus. Though delicious, it almost renders us incapable of tackling the brick-like sticky toffee pudding on the short dessert menu. Luckily this god-tier STP, though massive, is so light we demolish it with ease. Primeur then; absolutely still got it.
The vibe Romantic and cosy neighbourhood joint.
The food Seasonal small plates with a full-throttle European influence.
The drink Natural wine is the move, but there are a couple of gentle cocktails too.
Time Out tip A Sunday lunch here with the sun streaming through the windows (and open doors on a nice day) is just about one of the lovliest things you can do in the area.