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Though the original Pucci on the King’s Road closed down a couple of years ago, a swanky new version of the pizzeria has been reborn in Mayfair. The look is very ‘Brooklyn loft’: bare brick walls dotted with pop art, naked light bulbs and plants ‘casually’ propped up in every corner. The thumping music from the bar area drifts over to add a bit of extra vibe. The menu is Italian with a hint of the Med (labneh, barbari bread, calamari), a combo that sometimes misses the mark. Prices are, for lack of a better word, pricy, but that is to be expected in this postcode – the ’nduja pizza tops out at an enthusiastic £18. If that’s too dear, try the garlic pizza bread (£8). Its thin, crisp, Roman-style base will win you Marie Kondo points for minimalism.
There are decent small plates, like croquettes stuffed with oozing parmesan and prosciutto, or pulled beef brisket, the jus-drenched meat served over a silken mound of houmous and topped with roast chickpeas. Or courgette fritti, served in thick discs (rather than the usual matchstick style), so you keep plenty of that veggie taste alongside the deep-fried batter. You can have a good time here, just preferably not with your own money. Our tip? Stick to the pizzas: it’s what they do best.