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Railroad (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Global Hackney

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, this venue is now closed. Time Out Eating & Drinking editors, June 2016.

Initially winning acclaim for its brunch, this cosy spot on Homerton’s fast-gentrifying Morning Lane is now a local fave for lunch and dinner too. Gone are the open-mic nights, and in has come a sharpened focus on Railroad’s eclectic, homely dishes, which run the gamut from moroccan eggs to ajo blanco. The seating options are also diverse, with diner-style tables arranged next to battered school chairs. Although the space leaves you in no doubt you’re in Hackney – an arty black and white photo of an obscure indie singer graces the wall, and craft beers line the shelves – the atmosphere is easy-going.

The meal got off to a lip-smacking start with beetroot borani. This yoghurt, beetroot and garlic purée (popularised by Moro) was taken to new heights with the addition of orange blossom. Mains were also good. Line-caught mackerel was served with a (slightly too moist) bulgar wheat, dill and yoghurt salad; and birria – a Mexican stew of pork shoulder, chipotle chillies and sweet potato – was rich and hearty.

After a break to peruse the books for sale (cookery books sit beside literary classics), we enjoyed a sensationally light yet rich Cru Virunga chocolate cake and a Square Mile espresso – the perfect end to a very civilised evening.

 

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Details

Address: 120-122 Morning Lane
London
E9 6LH
Transport: Tube: Hackney Central rail
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