Small and unassuming, tucked away on the main road to Kingston Bridge, Rocksons isn’t going to win any style awards, but a good few of its many customers undoubtedly believe that the no-frills, café-like decor is part of its charm. Service is smiley, if a little slow. The food, when it arrives, is a treat. Blinis, topped with oak-smoked Scottish salmon and mascarpone, were light and fluffy; fat little seared scallops arrived crowned with crisp serrano ham and served with mango salsa. The more-than-generous mains (especially the roasts) offer plenty of bang for your buck. Glazed confit of Berkshire pork belly with borlotti beans, sautéed greens, spiced onion and apple chutney was a lovely big plate of food; herb- and mustard-crusted rack of lamb served with caramelised onions, sauté potatoes, fine green beans and mint jus batted well above average. This is honest homely cooking from a decent neighbourhood restaurant – so, while there’s nothing too ambitious here, Rocksons gets a big thumbs-up from Kingston residents, weary of the surrounding chains.