Time Out says
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An offshoot of Simon Rogan’s esteemed L’Enclume in Cumbria, this slip of a restaurant has been cleverly promoted as a two-year pop-up. The result? A packed reservations book and cult status among a hip business crowd and catering’s bright young things, despite mixed reviews at launch.
The interior mixes rural charm (heritage green paint, tongue-and-groove panelling, small rooms and low ceilings) with retro chic; service strikes a similar note of easygoing formality. The staff’s menu knowledge is admirable – as it needs to be with the likes of coal oil and liquorice curd on the menus.
Diners choose from three, six or ten brow-raising courses. Diplomatically, the same is offered to vegetarians, perhaps not so difficult given that British natural ingredients are the kitchen’s bedrock and none of the artistically presented dishes is complete without some leaf, seed, root or flower you didn’t realise was edible.
On our visit, ox-eye daisies lent a vegetal sweetness and bright colour to a plate of thumbnail-sized heritage potatoes poached in rapeseed oil and served with peas and burnet leaves. We loved the precision cooking of duck breast with sweetbreads, red orach and salt-baked turnips, and the exquisite delicacy of macerated strawberries with buttermilk, yoghurt and the aniseed kick of sweet cicely.
The £29 lunch menu can include two glasses of paired wine for just £6 extra – great value. Given the complexity of the flavours on the plate, staff recommendations are the way to go here.
Note that Roganic is closing for good on June 20 2013.
19 Blandford Street
|Transport:||Tube: Baker Street or Bond Street tube|
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