Rowley's Restaurant

This venerable old St James's restaurant has been a port of call for steak enthusiasts for nearly 40 years. Its speciality is entrecôte steak, served with green salad, a house herb, Roquefort and butter sauce and unlimited fries - just give the staff a nod in the direction of your empty bowl and they'll deliver a new one, quick-sharp in our experience.

It's not just about the cow, though. Starters include chicken liver and foie gras parfait with fig jelly and toasted brioche, smoked salmon from H Forman and cured meats from Canon & Canon. Other mains include venison haunch steaks, Barnsley chops, wild mushroom and spinach risotto and a house burger, with maple-cured bacon and truffle mayo.

The wine list focuses on the old world, with France particularly well represented. Beers come from Crate, Meantime, Andwell and Seven.