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Sabor (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Pan-South American Islington

Time Out says

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This place’s name – ‘flavour’ – could be its one-word manifesto. Ranging coast-to-coast across South America, cherry-picking its maximum-impact dishes and ingredients, Sabor’s approach sees classics like Cuban ropa vieja share menu space with the kitchen’s own creations.

Sweetcorn fritters from the set menu were a simple, well-fried starter, accompanied by tangy avocado salad. An à la carte ceviche peruano wasn’t available, but substitute Brazilian caldo verde soup shone. For the set menu main course, humitas (dumplings of cornmeal, sweetcorn, onions and peppers) were freshly steamed, served alongside plentiful leaf salad and palm heart.

Our waiter, excellent throughout, recommended the Argentinian steak for an à la carte main, but Brazil won out again: moqueca fish stew was rich and bountiful, topped with a great shell-on prawn and slab of swordfish. Desserts included own-made rum and raisin ice-cream, and banana bread with rum caramel and guanábana (soursop) sorbet.

Full-length windows next to the street give the narrow space an airy feel, while mounted Barranquilla Carnival masks, colourful tables and a sleek metallic ceiling sculpture perk up the white-walled interior.

 

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Details

Address: 108 Essex Road
London
N1 8LX
Transport: Tube: Angel tube or Essex Road rail or bus 38, 73
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