Saigon Saigon

West London is something of a desert for Vietnamese food, but this roomy, fairly smart place near Ravenscourt Park more than makes amends. As well as the two sizeable dining rooms – coolly decorated with dark wood, bamboo, and black and white photos of pre-war Saigon – there’s a party room holding up to 16.

In the basement is a lounge for private events, and in summer, tables are placed on the very wide, boulevard-style pavement. Service is unfailingly welcoming, polite and informative, and the standard of cooking reliably high. Pho is a treat here, with a strong base stock and all the power of traditional flavours and herbs. Particular delights include crisp vegetarian spring rolls, packed with vermicelli, wood-ear mushrooms and tofu; a splendidly crabby soft-shell crab with garlic and chilli; and juicy chargrilled quail marinated with honey, garlic and five-spice.

A dish of melt-in-the-mouth stewed pork with quails’ eggs was also memorable, so too baked duck breast with a superb ginger relish. The £9.95 two-course lunch menu includes the aforementioned pho and a drink. In contrast to the limited choice of beers, the wine list is pleasantly varied and international, with several excellent options.