Time Out says
The arresting entrance hall, with its high-impact artworks and greeters who are part-cast and part-personal assistant, are cues that you are entering not just a building of dizzying grandeur, but a designed world with a playful, theatrical bent. Sketch’s Lecture Room & Library is up a very fine staircase.
Flooded with light from a glass ceiling dome, and governed by immaculately tailored staff, it’s the most classical space in the complex, with the food providing the trademark fantastical note. It’s a positive procession of the pretty, witty and gay, from the first amuse-bouche to the last pink petit four.
Our set lunch comprised 15 or so different dishes, using a gazetteer of ingredients and a battery of techniques: highly accomplished cooking whose dainty presentation belies its seriousness. There’s so much going on – within dishes and in the combination of dishes served as one course – that you surrender yourself to the cumulative experience. Just a few examples from one meal: bream sashimi; langoustine consommé with wild garlic, kaffir and dill, blood-orange jelly and spring cabbage; pork belly confit with tamarillo purée, celery, Japanese medlar, celery stick and potato foam with comté cheese; lemon and beer ice-cream with raspberries.
It’s quite a trip, as is the wine list, which isn’t all at fantasy prices. The sommelier clearly loves his work, and is as happy to recommend beer as he is to favour a prestige claret if the dish demands it.
9 Conduit St
|Transport:||Tube: Oxford Circus|
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Users say (4)
Average User Rating
5 / 5
- 5 star:4
- 4 star:0
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- 1 star:0
Restaurants simply don't get better than this, from the smooth service, or sublime taste of each dish. We started and finished with Champagne, which I would heartily recommend, whilst having the best dining experience of the year