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Bare concrete walls, high ceilings and dangling metallic lamps lent this upscale Marylebone burger place a raw, industrial-chic aesthetic. Yet, the dark wooden seats looked like they could have been borrowed from a Balinese restaurant, and outsized steak knives were equally incongruous.
However, the menu showed promise with a regular selection of reasonably priced beef, chicken and veggie burgers, plus posh lobster and wagyu beef upgrades with prices to match. But splashing the cash didn’t guarantee a better burger. The wagyu beef patty was no better than prime mince and an interesting sounding ‘Asian slaw’ was simply shredded carrot and cucumber. The lacklustre layers were held together by a decent brioche bun though – soft, buttery and nicely toasted. A chorizo and beef burger with manchego cheese proved much more lively.
As if trying to eat a burger neatly in this upmarket restaurant wasn’t stressful enough, the mock-granite serving slabs slid around every time we tried to spear something with our forks. Sides were disappointingly fried in oil that wasn’t hot enough, making our chunky, triple cooked chips and onion rings greasy.
There’s no shortage of burger joints in Marylebone, but Slabs should tick the box for diners who like to enjoy theirs with a crisp glass of white wine rather than a shake.
Reviewed by Christine Yeo