Sonny's Kitchen - CLOSED
Time Out says
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Please note, Sonny's Kitchen has now closed. A new restaurant called Church Road, run by the same owners, has opened up on the site. Time Out Food editors, September 2019.
Sonny’s should get some kind of medal for longevity of service; it’s been sating the appetites of Barnes’ residents since 1986. After a few years of slightly under-par performance, decor and menu (and name) had a revamp in 2012, courtesy of restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas and chef Philip Howard (of the Square); both live nearby.
The layout – café and bar at the front, restaurant in the sunken rear area – hasn’t changed, but the look is fresher and more modern; happily, the eclectic art collection remains. The succinct menu offers a half-dozen or so choices each for starters, mains and desserts plus a trio of grilled meat dishes (baby back ribs, burger, ribeye) and another of pizzas – we’re not convinced by the overall balance, but it’s still a popular spot for many occasions, from low-key suppers to family celebrations.
Succulent pan-fried calf’s liver worked well with rich creamed potatoes and balsamic-glazed red onions; roast pollack, with razor clams, barba di frate, leeks and lardo di colonnata was also cooked with care, but lacked excitement. Best was a pillowy passionfruit soufflé with sharp lime ice-cream, much better than a dull rice pudding with rhubarb compote. Staff are pleasant but not always engaged. Next door, Sonny’s deli deals in upmarket packaged (and some fresh) foodstuffs.
94 Church Road
|Transport:||Tube: Barnes or Barnes Bridge rail, or bus 33, 209, 283|
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