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Restaurants, British South Kensington
3 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

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A new health-food spot in South Ken.

All too often ‘healthy eating’ translates into a lunch that’s limper than a wilted lettuce leaf. Thankfully, that isn’t the case at Squirrel – a west London health-food haven, complete with indoor trees, bird house cutlery holders and a frankly disturbing mural of a squirrel being taken from behind.

But rodent rumpus aside, it’s a cosy space, dishing up hearty, filling food. Therein, a ginger spice warm grain bowl was well-seasoned and dressed, with a rich sesame flavour. Tofu – so frequently maligned – was smoked, firm and delicious. The guac ’n’ roll bowl was a free-form burrito, zesty with coriander and lime, and even a vegan rocky road was great, eschewing marshmallows for popcorn.

Though they’ve nailed the cooking, on our visit there were teething problems. The brilliant-sounding drinking well – £1.50 for as much green tea and infused water as your kidneys can process – wasn’t working, and a complicated self-service system meant ordering was a little chaotic. Hopefully, with time, the rough edges will be smoothed, to make for a slightly less nutty experience.


Address: 11 Hartington Road
Transport: Tube: South Kensington
Price: Lunch for two with drinks and service: around £30.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 8am-9.30pm; Sat 8am-9.30pm; Sun 9am-9.30pm
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