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St James (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Contemporary European Crouch End and Hornsey

Time Out says

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Please note, St James is now closed. Time Out Food & Drink Editors.

There’s something of a heavenly aura to the dining room at this Crouch End newcomer. With unadorned white walls, white tablecloths and lampshades, a long white banquette along one wall and a mirror covering another, you almost expect an angel, rather than a waitress, to appear at your side to take your order. The dining room is at the rear of the venue (it was formerly Florians); at the front is a bar. Its first incarnation was in stark contrast to the restaurant, all black marble, mirrors and blue neon lighting, but it will have transformed into a more soothing space by the time this guide is published, serving breakfast and brunch as well as booze. The food menu won’t change, however: a mix of British, French, Mediterranean and oriental dishes, offered à la carte and as a fixed price ‘market menu’. The latter is a bargain, with generous portions and an ambitious, creative approach to the food – that doesn’t always pay off. A starter of grilled halloumi with strawberries, parma ham and leaves was, frankly, odd; simpler, and much better, was a dish of crispy-coated, soft-centred whitebait. To follow, seared calf’s liver atop a crusty potato cake married well with green beans flecked with bacon bits. ‘Chilli tempura cod’ featured nuggets of lovely, flaky fish, but the batter wasn’t notably tempura-like, and there was no hint of the promised chilli. The brief wine list is approachable, and service deft and friendly.

 

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Details

Address: 4 Topsfield Parade
London
N8 8PR
Cross street: Middle Lane
Transport: Tube: Crouch Hill rail then bus W7
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