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I’m guessing the crowds being turned away from this new South East Asian restaurant in Waterloo were lured by the high-end menu from a chef with previous experience at Soho’s super-spendy Spice Market. And yup, the food is mostly great, even if the prices sometimes border on bananas. I ordered nasi goreng, the classic Indonesian/Malaysian fried rice dish, simply to see if it was worth the £14 price tag (not really). But oysters with a late, gentle hit of heat from chilli tapioca pearls were superb, the meat in an ox cheek rendang was gloriously tender and pork belly steamed buns had me cooing like a pigeon.
Service was a bit scatty but staff were clearly keen to please and there’s scope to make the two-floor rabbit warren of a restaurant feel less dated. Overall, good food, could do better on the rest.