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Street Kitchen (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Cafés Hackney

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Bright little lunch spot serving wholesome hugs on a plate.

Please note, Street Kitchen has now closed. Time Out Food editors, January 2019.

Once upon a time, not so long ago, railway arches were the hangout of mechanics alone. Now the fact that this one sells excellent vegan and gluten-free apple cake ain’t even newsworthy. But a place doesn’t necessarily need a hook to be worth a visit, it just has to be doing everything right.

London-based chefs Jun Tanaka and Mark Jankel started Street Kitchen in a shiny silver airstream back in 2009 with the aim of making gourmet food more accessible. Now they’ve got two airstreams and a permanent spot in the City as well as this new one in London Fields. The menu is uncomplicated but so appealing; they’re dishing up the sort of food Nigella might serve to her kids. Hot smoked salmon with soft, savoury crushed new potatoes, buttery but still healthy-tasting greens and chunks of sweet, firm beetroot makes for the sort of stomach-filler that makes you feel nourished as well as hugged. If fish is too technically virtuous then go for the flavour-packed but impressively light lamb meatballs with fruited couscous, or fill up on cake; Jackie Lee is Street Kitchen’s resident baker and her sweet treats are irresistible. The aforementioned apple cake is the sort that’s stealthy-healthy – I didn’t order it for its free-from credentials and would order it again in spite of them.

This branch of Street Kitchen is currently lunch-only, but when it starts serving dinners it’ll be an excellent upgrade for east Londoners who want the comfort of high-class home cooking without the trip to M&S. And until then, as long as you don’t mind sharing the bright, cosy space with a few pushchairs and a rotating queue of local workers, this is a lunch spot that is definitely doing everything right.

Details

Address: 381 Mentmore Terrace
London
E8 3PH
Transport: London Fields Rail.
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