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Good Mexican food in London is famously hard to come by. Mainly because Mexico is actually quite far from the Big Smoke, and compared to the likes of New York and LA we don’t have a huge Latinx population here. And yet, people (particularly Americans) still love to complain about it. So, moaners, we’re pleased to say that things could be changing. Mexican cuisine in the city is on the up, and joints like Taquiza are helping it on its way.
Taquiza has a bit of a ramshackle feel to it. There are exposed MDF boards, and the ceiling has a visible black curtain stapled across it, a bit like being backstage at a jaunty community theatre. This is down to the fact that the space doubles up as The Carpet Shop, one of London’s best new(ish) clubs, opened by the people behind the always-excellent Corsica Studios. It’s a fun concept! On a Friday night Taquiza was lively, but managed to remain cosy. Pisco sours and spicy margs were flowing and drinking them was a young and suitably fashionable, but not pretentious, crowd.
Our faces and hands were covered with various sauces and mayos – the messy sign of a meal truly enjoyed
As for the food, they aren’t shy when it comes to portion sizes. We kicked things off with a trio of starters para compartir. Smoky refried black beans with the gooeyest island of queso fundido – hello cheese pull – and grilled elote (corn on the cob) with a cool burnt onion sour cream were firm favourites. A wonderful tuna tostada came piled high with crisp avocado salsa, zingy pickles and tangy chipotle mayo, taking me straight back to a recent trip to Quintana Roo.
But the real MVP of the meal was a goat shoulder taco. Roasted for eight hours, the shredded meat was unbelievably tender, with a depth of smoked meatiness that you only really get with goat. And the deep fried king prawn taco, with massive more-than-a-mouthful sized shrimp, was everything you want a fried fish taco to be. The halloumi al pastor could have been a bit less acidic, and the coconut fried enoki mushroom taco was decadent but delicious. At the end, our faces and hands were covered with various sauces and mayos – the messy sign of a meal truly enjoyed.
Above everything, Taquiza is fun. The staff are laid back, friendly, and know what they’re doing; it plays cool electronic music; it’s got wacky art on the walls; it turns into a really decent club; and you get to eat with your hands. What’s not to like?
The vibe A hip, DIY space under a Peckham archway.
The drink A dependable shortlist of Mexican and Latin American-inspired cocktails. Yes, they have spicy margs.
The food Healthy sized tacos and traditional Mexican plates to share.
Time Out tip Go for the food, stay for the night when it turns into The Carpet Shop club after dinner.