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Please note, this branch of Temple of Seitan has now closed because the restaurant has moved to a new site in Camden, which is open. Time Out Food editors, MARCH 2020.
Vegans and the vegan-curious: rejoice. Temple of Seitan – known for its meat-free ‘fried chicken’ – has done us all a favour by hatching a second outpost at the Camden end of Regent’s Canal. Key differences from the Hackney original? Indoor seating (albeit classroom-style plastic chairs) and a bright, grease-free dining space.
The menu is still focused on the gluten-based meat substitute seitan, battered and served as a fillet, in a bap or as bite-sized nuggets, plus vegan sides. Chewy chunks of popcorn ‘chicken’ came coated in a moreish, peppery batter – and, as a bona-fide omnivore, I’d happily choose these over the real deal.
But the best thing here, surprisingly, is not the famous faux chook. Enter the Temple Deluxe, a substitute beef burger, an epiphany of soft brioche bun, tangy burger sauce, convincing ‘facon’ (bacon, geddit?), thick-cut pickle, plenty of lettuce and a squishy-middled, crispy-edged patty that was like a homemade beef quarter pounder seared to medium rare on a sizzling grill.
Temple of Camden may be a touch on the clinical side, but there’s still a lot to like. I’ll be signing up for regular worship.