This sophisticated Modern European restaurant is fronted by Icelander Aggi Sverrisson, former head chef at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir. It’s popular with smart corporate groups on elastic expense accounts. The dining area, sited in a spacious Georgian room, is furnished in neutral colours, enlivened by pastel-green leather upholstery, modern art and striking floral arrangements. A light-filled bar sets the scene with an exhaustive champagne selection.
Clean-cut flavours characterise the menu. Precision-cooked Norwegian king crab provided a globally inspired tease of chunky crab meat, set against a backdrop of warm ginger broth spiked with wasabi and crunchy roasted garlic. Delicately smoked salmon fillet with pickled vegetables and diced apple worked a treat with peppery horseradish cream, cucumber granita and aromatic sorrel for an orchestrated blend of textures, temperatures and sweet, tangy flavours. It’s not all about fish and seafood, though; meat main courses are just as distinctive.
Milk-fed veal strips, cooked to perfect pinkness, were partnered by Jersey Royals, summery artichokes and a delectable sherried jus enriched with plump morels. Updating a 1,000-year tradition of partnering Icelandic skyr (soft cheese) with rhubarb, dessert teamed the duo with crunchy caramelised rye crumbs for a fitting finale. Service is utterly professional.
Cooking this good doesn’t come cheap, but there’s a more affordable set menu at lunchtime.
34 Portman Street
|Opening hours:||Bar Open noon-midnight, lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6.30-11pm Tue-Sat. Main courses £13.50-£85. Set lunch £19.90 2 courses, £24.90 3 courses. Restaurant Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6.30-11pm Tue-Sat|
|Transport:||Tube: Marble Arch|
|Price:||Main courses £27.50-£37.50. Set lunch £55 tasting menu (£100 incl wine). Set meal £62 vegetarian tasting menu, £76.50 fish tasting menu, £79 tasting menu (£131 incl wine)|
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Average User Rating
4 / 5
- 5 star:2
- 4 star:1
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:1
- 1 star:0
A special treat for a celebration but it was worth it ! We went for the full experience and loved every minute . A big fan of Scandinavian cooking this restaurant is a close match to the likes of Geranium or AOC and much easier to get a table tooo
Had Friday lunch at Texture with some friends. The food was fantastic and the service was good though some slight improvements wouldn't hurt. We were pleasantly surprised with the value of the meal when we went for the three course set lunch menu. recommend this place.
Although it's not bad it is quite joyless. Both the food and the wine list, like the decor, try to iron out so many rough corners that they end up being dangerously close to bland, quite accomplished but ultimately not very interesting. We had the fish tasting menu which list several interesting ingredients, but the only thing that really tasted of anything was the liquid the scallop was in, which tasted slightly of either unreduced wine or vinegar not really the wasabi citrus it promised. It would perhaps of all worked for me if it was still the late 90's but things have moved on since. However if expensive and inoffensive is your thing, give it a go.