The Allis feels a bit like a hallway, which is to be expected as that’s precisely what it is. It’s the portal to White City House (an outpost of Soho House) and the only part of it that’s open to lesser mortals. Dark and glossy, the room is laidback but trendy enough to attract the area’s creatives and media types. The ’70s interior accents a nod to the building’s previous tenant, the BBC’s Television Centre. Think old-school table lamps and neon wall art.
The menu mixes brasserie fare with American classics: burgers, pies and caesar salads feature. For an all-day eatery that is essentially a passage, the food is much better than you’d expect. Highlights included toothsome pumpkin ravioli smothered in a buttery sage, garlic and ricotta sauce, smoked chicken croquettes with a heady scent of paprika, and a hefty chocolate-chip cookie sprinkled with coarse sea salt – a small tweak that made it hugely moreish. Only the deep-fried halloumi fingers, served with an overpowering ’nduja mayo, failed to please.
Otherwise, this is a decent spot with attentive service, comfortable chairs and a jazzy live band that encourages you to linger.