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The Black Penny

  • Restaurants
  • Covent Garden
  • 4 out of 5 stars
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Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

A great café/takeaway between Covent Garden and Holborn.

It was a marketing wheeze that really, really worked. This new café/takeaway in Covent Garden sold every dish for a penny on opening day, and when we went a few days later there were huge queues waiting for tables and (mostly) takeaway. It reminded us of the old drug dealer’s trick to get new clients: ‘the first one’s free’.

Addiction to Black Penny may become a recognised medical condition, but it won’t be because of cost – low though that is. When you finally reach the counter, you see dishes that look like those at many another coffee place: soup, sandwiches, salad, quiche, a stew, lots of baked sweet things. But when you finally sit down in the small back dining room, you realise this isn’t the stuff of two-for-a-penny cafés. 

The quality is high in both sweet and savoury dishes. Salads are a particular strength, with confident seasoning in the dressings and excellent assemblies of sprightly ingredients to carry them. The kitchen has a masterful pasty-maker, as we saw in both a savoury tart and a Pennsylvania-Dutch-style apple pie. They also had a good ceviche on the menu when we were there.

Portions are enormous and prices eminently reasonable - £7.50 for a salad box that some people would be happy to share between two, sandwiches just under a fiver.

In the food, the only downer was inelegant presentation of salad selections. The separate components were piled together so that their flavours blended in some unappealing ways: ceviche on top of couscous is never a good look. This is inevitable when you’re filling takeaway boxes, but inexcusable when working with a large plate for eating in.

In the service, the downer was a moderate dose of merry chaos: they need to sort out their queuing and payment system to cut down waiting and confusion. But we were there in very early days, and they made it clear that they were aware of the problem.

Once Black Penny sorts its systems, it is going to be the sort of place you dream about having near your office. You won’t begrudge spending pounds rather than pennies here. Even at full price, Black Penny is a sterling lunchtime destination. 

Written by Richard Ehrlich

Details

Address:
34 Great Queen Street
London
WC2B 5AA
Transport:
Tube: Holborn or Covent Garden
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