Last year a trendy brunch spot called Bad Egg opened in the City. This one is no relation and doesn’t have much to do with eggs – but it is good, very good.
From the slatted bench that runs round one wall, it’s interesting to sit and contemplate what an efficient job the owners have done with a small space – it’s compact but not packed, stylish but not slavishly so, with an open kitchen, bar, high stools and central service stations all fitted in.
A bit of uncertain service was forgiven on this early-days visit, especially once the food started arriving. ‘Plates’ are Middle Eastern-influenced, a real trend at the moment, but it’s convincing. Preserved lemon and feta came on cocktail sticks in a tapas dish, sprinkled with fiery flaked chilli, an update of that ’70s party-nibble favourite cheddar and pineapple. An Iraqi pita had fried aubergine, chopped egg and mango pickle inside airy bread; best of all was za’atar fried chicken – spicy, crunchy and practically competition for your local Chicken Cottage at £5.50. (Everything’s good value – two of us left full after a couple of drinks each for less than £50.) There are bigger dishes like Persian smoked brisket or whole roast cauliflower with tahini and pomegranate.
It’s open all day, with tempting-looking breakfasts ensuring this little space will before long be full morning to night. In a city where too often a new restaurant opening leaves us scratching our heads wondering ‘What were they thinking?’, Good Egg seems to have cracked it.