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The Good Egg

  • Restaurants
  • Stoke Newington
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  1. © Giulia Mule
    © Giulia Mule
  2. © Giulia Mule
    © Giulia Mule
  3. © Giulia Mule
    © Giulia Mule
  4. © Giulia Mule
    © Giulia Mule
  5. © Giulia Mule
    © Giulia Mule
  6. © Giulia Mule
    © Giulia Mule
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Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

This one-time pop-up has found a permanent home for its all-day breakfasts, burgers and bakes that mix trans-atlantic trends 'from LA to Tel Aviv via London'

Last year a trendy brunch spot called Bad Egg opened in the City. This one is no relation and doesn’t have much to do with eggs – but it is good, very good.

From the slatted bench that runs round one wall, it’s interesting to sit and contemplate what an efficient job the owners have done with a small space – it’s compact but not packed, stylish but not slavishly so, with an open kitchen, bar, high stools and central service stations all fitted in.

A bit of uncertain service was forgiven on this early-days visit, especially once the food started arriving. ‘Plates’ are Middle Eastern-influenced, a real trend at the moment, but it’s convincing. Preserved lemon and feta came on cocktail sticks in a tapas dish, sprinkled with fiery flaked chilli, an update of that ’70s party-nibble favourite cheddar and pineapple. An Iraqi pita had fried aubergine, chopped egg and mango pickle inside airy bread; best of all was za’atar fried chicken – spicy, crunchy and practically competition for your local Chicken Cottage at £5.50. (Everything’s good value – two of us left full after a couple of drinks each for less than £50.) There are bigger dishes like Persian smoked brisket or whole roast cauliflower with tahini and pomegranate.

It’s open all day, with tempting-looking breakfasts ensuring this little space will before long be full morning to night. In a city where too often a new restaurant opening leaves us scratching our heads wondering ‘What were they thinking?’, Good Egg seems to have cracked it.

Written by
Euan Ferguson

Details

Address:
93 Stoke Newington Church St
London
N16 0AS
Transport:
Stoke Newington rail
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