Gaze around the plush dining room at this exquisite, family-owned hotel as bow-tied waiters glide serenely by, and only the branch-like Swarovski chandeliers remind you we left the Edwardian era a long time ago. Carpets and drapes are thick, colours muted, mobile phones most unwelcome. A recent refurbishment by Viscount Linley’s design company gently updated the decor while preserving the refinement and understated luxury of the 103-year-old restaurant.
Food is anything but stuffy, with sophisticated interpretations of British classics to the fore. Much is made of the only-the-best ingredient sourcing policy, and the quality is clear. A light hand in the kitchen is evident in the likes of a flavour-packed ham knuckle terrine with a zingy cider apple foam, or a generous slice of poached Wester Ross salmon surrounded by painstakingly sliced slivers of crunchy spring vegetables.
Those were both from the pre-theatre menu, which though not exactly cheap at £33 for two courses, is more affordable than the £49.50 for three on the à la carte. Puddings and cheeses are served from a trolley, as is beef wellington, in a wonderfully traditional manner. An indulgent experience: old-world English glamour with a modern touch.